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Verbose Coma, by writer/performer Andi Teran

CITY   Insider Guide: Reykjavik
Published May 2006
Article Link: http://city-magazine.com/magazine/insider.html


From Vikings and volcanoes to the legendary Björk, Reykjavik, Iceland, has as many identities as it does glaciers. Some deem it a music Mecca and nightlife playground while others classify it as a land of eco-adventure and culinary wonder. Whether you're an urban crawler, off-road thrill-seeker, or 24-hour party person, if you are venturing to Iceland's "Smoky Bay," you're likely to unearth a vibrant, modern culture illuminated by a stunning landscape.

A must for chic out-of-towners and fashionable locals alike, 101 HOTEL (Hverfisgata 10, www.101hotel.is) remains Reykjavik's preeminent address for socializing and bedding-down in style. This centrally located hotel boasts 38 luxurious rooms and suites outfitted in sleek black and white. Venture downstairs for cocktails in the ground floor lounge or in the sexy, modish cafe alongside elegant ruffians fresh from filming their new music video.

The easiest way to navigate downtown Reykjavik is on foot. Start by strolling along Laugavegur--the city's main shopping avenue. Among the best of the boutiques is the delightful design shop KISAN (Laugavegur 7, www. kisan.is), specializing in unique novelty books, objets d'art, and adorable children's clothes. Next door sits arguably the coolest clothing-store-cum-art-gallery in the city, TRILOGIA (Laugavegur 7, www.trilogia.is), showcasing their own cutting-edge line as well as hard-to-find international labels and local artwork.

Nestled just off the main strip is the NAKED APE (Bankastraeti 14), a second-f loor loft space offering exclusive urban streetwear and asymmetrical haircuts at in-house salon, "Can I Cut Your Hair?" Pick up ear candy from music store 12 TóNAR (Skolavordustigur 15, www.12tonar.is), followed by a beverage break at KAFFIBARINN (Bergstaoarstraeti 1, 354-551-1588), the rustic candlelit spot co-owned by Blur's Damon Albarn.

While some may pale at the sight of reindeer or puffin on a menu, Iceland's local seafood is not only a viable option; it's often the choicest. Case in point, chef Larus Gunnar's stellar cuisine at Sjavarkjallarinn, or SEAFOOD CELLAR RESTAURANT (Aoalstraeti 2, www.sjavark jallarinn.is). Try the snowcrab Thai cannelloni or tandoori tuna. Also not to be missed is the culinary hotspot APOTEK (Austurstraeti 16, www.veitingar.is), where well-heeled diners delight in dishes such as salt cod with cardamom sauce in an elegant dining room by night or in its bright cafe by day. Ready to crash? Book a room at the newly renovated Art Deco HOTEL BORG (Posthusstraeti 11, www.hotelborg.is), situated right around the corner.

Rejuvenate yourself at THE BLUE LAGOON (240 Grindavik, www.bluelagoon.com). Located about an hour outside Reykjavik, this heated spring and seawater lagoon is known as much for its mineral-rich silica mud--rub it directly onto your body for its purifying benefits--as for the relaxed state it induces simply by floating in it. Rev yourself up again with an adventure led by ICELAND ROVERS (www.icelandrovers.is), with whom you can "jeep" over picturesque fjords and glaciers, hunting winter's breathtaking aurora borealis or basking in summer's midnight sunshine.

Photography by Hamish Robertson