"One should either be a work of art or wear a work of art," said Oscar Wilde, a faithful pocket square devotee. Whether you're donning a bespoke suit or a threadbare sport jacket, pop a puff of fabric into the left breast pocket, and they'll say, just who is that man? A movie star? A president? An anchorman? A hip-hop mogul? All of the above? Quite possibly. If the clothes make the man, then the pocket square makes the gentleman.

A direct descendent of the handkerchief, the pocket square had regal beginnings. Richard II of England is often credited as the original dapper dresser due to palace expenses listed on his Household Rolls describing "little pieces [of cloth] for the lord King to wipe and clean his nose." Carried for personal hygiene, the handkerchief was first worn slightly protruding from the left jacket sleeve where it could be easily accessed for dabbing a bit o' spot and assisting a tearful lady.

The 19th century saw fashion evolve into the Age of Aestheticism, and men (finally) discovered the virtues of being extravagantly well groomed. When the dandy emerged in his tailored frock coat, accoutrements such as the cravat and the floral boutonniere added to the aristocratic package. Upper welt (or chest) pockets were added, and the "little" cloth pieces of yore simply would not fit. Thus, tucked into trouser pockets they went and out burst a brilliant spray of silk from the heart.

A continual display of wealth, status, taste, and creativity, today the pocket square remains the sartorial accent of choice for the flâneur and financier alike. Bold colors and patterns suggest flamboyance, while clean white linen remains an austere classic. Individual styles may be initiated or imitated; choice is not limited. There are One- to Four-point Folds, adjusting the corners of the cloth to make one or multiple points. Clean and simple, the Presidential forces fabric into precise right angles, while the Puff is flashy, confident, and just that--a round puff slipped into the pocket. Jazz up the puff by pulling some peaks and you have the Astaire. For classic with a twist, reverse your Four-point Fold to create the Cagney, or keep things conservative with the TV Fold, a hint of horizontal fabric barely peeking from the breast pocket popularized by newscasters of the 1950s.

So choose a classic Paul Stuart paisley or Ralph Lauren''s checkerboard prints. Whether you're paying homage to elegant style or mixing it up haphazardly, there really is no right or wrong way to wear the pocket square. Just give it a try, dear gentleman, and stuff it with style.

Illustration by Julia Rothman